Shoe inseam sewing machine



Dec. 9, 1952 H. J. KOLOSKE 2,620,753

- SHOE INSEAM SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 12, 1950 Z2 lnwnior Patented Dec. 9, 1952 "UNITED STATES TENT OFFICE .snor: INSEAM SEWING MACHINE Application September 12, 1950, Serial No. 184,400

(Cl. I'M-35) 2 Claims.

The present invention relates to shoe inseam sewing machines and is herein'disclosed-as embodied in an improvement of a curved hook needle shoe sewing machine of the type illustrated in U. S. Letters Patent No. 1,920,998, granted August 8, 1933, in the name of A. R. Morrill, the stitch forming devices of which include a loopena thread finger and a channel guide.

In the operation of the patented machine on shoes having uppers with projecting marginal portions of excessive width, difficulty has frequently been encountered through interference ottlie projecting marginal upper portions with proper engagement of sewing thread in the thread finger If'the thread is not engaged by the thread finger an insufficient length will be provided between the looper and the last formed stitch in the work to enable the needle after looping tov be retracted from the work without stranding. the thread on the needle or abrasion from sliding movement of the thread in the hook of the needle while the threaded hook is passing through the work. .Improper engagement of the thread with the thread finger alsotends to strand and. rupture fibers in a thread on the thread finger itselfin a manner to cause insertion of a faulty seam.

The object of the invention is to reduce and prevent so far as possible, the difficulties noted aboveand to provide a chain stitch inseam sewing .machinewhich will be more reliable and efficientrin operation than prior machines of the same type. .A further and more specific object is :to. provide a shoeinseam sewing machine .capable of operating upon shoes having projecting marginal portions of their uppers extending excessively beyond the sewing ribs of their insoles without causing difficulty in manipulating the thread .or insertion of faulty seams.

The several features of the invention, including more particularly an improved form of thread finger having a projection cooperating with the channel guide to control and press the marginal portion of a shoe upper being operated upon away from the path of the thread, consist of the devices, combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter described and claimed together with the advantages to be obtained thereby, as will readily be understood from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings in which:

Fig. 1 is a detail sectional view in right side elevation of so much of the operating devices in a sewing machine and portions of a shoe being sewn, as is required for an understanding of the 2 invention, the parts shown being inpositions assumed just after penetration of the work bythe needle;

Fig. 2 isa similar view of the same partsin the same positions except that the projectingmarginal portion of ashoe upper is disposed in a position reverse to that illustrated in Fig. l;

Fig. '3 is asectional pla-nview -of the parts illustrated in Fig. '1 taken along the line III- III of that'figure;

*Fig. 4 is a sectional view of the parts illustrated in Fig. l -ta'ken alongthe'line IV-JV'; and

Fig. 5-is a perspective'view of a shoe having'an excessively wide projecting marginal portion on its upper, for-which the machine of the-present invention is intended to operate.

In the manufacture of shoes, patterns from which shoe upper stock is-cut frequently provide more material than is required in the construction of a shoe. Surplus upper stock is'taken up during manufacturing operation in different ways prior to lasting. After lasting a shoe any surplus upper remaining appears along the marginal portions, which may, as a result, project excessively from'the bottomof the shoe.

Referring more particularly to Fig. 5, a shoe upper is'illustrated at 6 supported on a last 8 and stapled 'to a sewing rib ID of an insole l2 securedto the bottom of the last 8. Due to the use of larger patterns than required the upper 6 projectsexcessively beyond the sewing rib Ill and when an attempt is made to presentthe'shoe to an inseam sewing machine it is necessary to fold or crumple the projecting marginal portions of the upper against themselves in order to locate the rib H] in proper relation to the stitch forming devices of the machine.

For guiding a shoe in an inseam sewing machine the machine is provided with a channel guide I4 engaging and supporting the inside of the sewing rib It on the shoe against the thrust of a curved hook needle 16. The stitch forming devices of such machines include the needle It, a needle guide [8, a needlelooper 20 acting to lay the sewing thread in the hook of the needle and a threadfinger 22,the hooked thread engaging end of which swings along the line of the seam. For assisting the needle to penetrate the work the upper and sewing ri'b are pierced by an awl 24 arranged to act in the same manner as the needle, both needle and awl entering the upper before penetrating the sewing rib. In addition to the upper and sewing rib in a Goodyear welt shoe the seam inserted. by the needle passes through a welt 26 led into the seam by a Welt guide (not shown).

With the projecting marginal portions of the shoe upper B crumpled and folded back in the manner required to conform with the locations of the stitch forming devices, as illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings, there is a marked tendency for the upper to straighten out and escape from its crumpled position. In so doing it may cover the hooked thread engaging portion 28 of the thread finger so as to shield the thread finger from engagement with the thread in the proper manner. For instance if the marginal portion of the upper passes between the looper and the thread finger movement of the thread into the hooked portion of the thread finger will be blocked entirely.

The thread finger is mounted to swing along the line of the seam inserted by the needle in a plane inclined downwardly toward the middle portion of the insole l2 on the shoe for this purpose. The thread finger is secured to a rock shaft 30 rot-atably mounted in a carrier 32 on which also is mountedthe-channelguide I4. The thread finger, therefore, as it swings along the seam in measuring thread moves through a fixed path relatively to the channel guide. The swinging movement of the thread finger along the line of the seam to measure thread is in the direction of the channel guide and the unsewed portions of the shoe and it is during the thread measuring movement that the marginal portion of the shoe upper may become displaced and released from its crumpledrelationship.

According to the principal feature of the present invention the illustrated thread'fin-ge 22 is provided with a projection 34 cooperating with the channel guide M in such a way that entry of the projecting marginal portion of the upper 6 between the thread finger and the looper is block-ed and the upper is prevented from displacement from its crumpled relation even though its marginal portion is of excessive width. The channel guide It has a shank 36 inclined away from the point of needle operation in the direction of the unsewed portion of the upper and other shoe parts, the rib engaging end of the channel guide acting close to and in advance of the needle as the thread finger is engaged with the thread by movement of the looper above the path of the thread finger. In measuring thread, the thread finger moves toward the inclined shank of the channel guide. To prevent entry of the marginal portion of the shoe upper at this time, the projection 34 is located in its position of closest proximity to the channel guide shank just before the thread is measured, the space between the thread finger and the shank being less than the thickness of the upper. As the thread finger moves in its thread measuring direction it presses the marginal portion of the upper downwardly in advance of the needle. As the shoe is fed the thread finger returns toward its original position, moving with the shoe to retain the pro-j ecting marginal portion of the upper in crumpled relation.

Regardless of the relation in which the upper is crumpled whether forwardly or backwardly, as in Figs. 1 and 2 respectively, the crumpled upper will be retained and controlled in proper confinement, the needle guide l8 frequently assisting in the action during operation on a shoe. The crumpled relation of the uppe may even reverse itself between these two illustrated positions without freeing itself from confinement.

It is thus apparent that by a simple expedient of providing a suitably shaped and 'located projection on the thread finger 22 the diificulties of improper thread measurement, abrasion on the thread or stranding are avoided. The operation of the thread-finger in other respects remains the same and when the marginal portion of a shoe is not of excessive width the thread finger acts in its normal manner without disadvantageous results.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and the particular embodiment h-aving'been described what is claimed is:

1. A shoe inseam sewing machine having a .curved hook needle mounted to enter the upper of a shoe and then to penetrate the sewing rib of an insole of the shoe, a needle looper acting to lay thread in the hook of the needle and a channel guide arranged to support the rib of the insole against the thrust of the needle, in combination with a thread measuring finger mounted to swing along the line of a seam inserted by the needle toward the channel guide and formed with a projection extending into close proximity with the channel guide while the thread engaging portion of the thread finger is in position to receive the thread from the looper to prevent entry of the marginal portions of the shoe upper between the looper and the thread engaging portion of the thread finger.

2. A shoe inseam sewing machine having a curved hook needle mounted to enter the upper of a shoe and then to penetrate the sewing'rib of an insole of the shoe, a needle looper acting to lay thread in the hook of the needle and a channel guide arranged to engage the rib of the insole in advance of the point of operation of the needle to support the rib'against the thrust of the needle, said channel guide being constructed with a shank. inclined away from the point'of needle operation in the direction of the unsewed portion of the upper, in combination with a thread measuring finger mounted to swing along the line of a scam in a plane downwardly inclined toward the middle portion of the sole on a shoe being operated upon and toward the shank of the chan nel guide during its thread measuring movement, said thread finger being formed with a projection extending into close proximity with the shank of the channel guide while the thread engaging portion of the thread finger is in a position to receive thread from the looper to prevent entry of the marginal portion of the shoe upper between the looper and the thread engaging portion of the thread finger.

' HENRY J. KOLOSKE.

No references cited. 

